The Ideal Watering Schedule for Your Home
June 17th 2019
July 16th 2019
Grass mowing height is a compromise between getting the superb looking lawn you want and allowing the grass enough leaf to be healthy.
This means you can mow your lawn close but only when optimum conditions prevail; warmth, moderate sunshine, moderate rainfall and adequate fertilizer. This is also when the grass is healthiest and able to recover easily from regular low cutting.
Change these conditions to high stress ones; heat, drought, cold or constant drenching and your lawn will need high mowing to survive.
Let the weather and seasons be your guide to mowing heights. Three fingers, just like the ‘W’ of weather can help you remember your mowing heights as follows. I’m using a low-use lawn as an example for mowing height:
When making adjustments to the mowing height do it in stages, particularly when lowering the height. If two stops on your height setting are needed to go from summer height to early autumn height then mow one setting lower for two cuts then make the final lowering adjustment.
You should only lower the height if this will not stress the mower; therefore the grass should not be too long or wet. Sometimes, particularly if the lawn is dense, you may need to do a cut on your present setting followed by a cut at the lower height a day or two later.
The grass leaf grows from the central crown on a stem. The stem may not be green but rather a straw colour so that when you mow long grass or when you lower the height you are removing more leaf (the green part) than usual thus exposing the stem. This may leave the lawn or parts of the lawn with a straw colour after mowing. The grass plant will accommodate this by sprouting new leaves lower down the stem so that over the next few cuts the effect will disappear.
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