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Common Garden Weeds

21 Common Garden Weeds

A weed is any plant that is unwanted in a particular location – it is a plant that grows in the wrong place. Garden weeds or lawn weeds are plants that affect the health and quality of the garden and lawn. Some weeds reproduce and propagate aggressively, and therefore are termed as invasive species. Keep in mind that the term ‘weed’ does not hold any botanical significance as the plant that is considered a weed in one situation will not be a weed if it grows in a place where it is wanted; some weeds like varieties of wildflowers are also called beneficial weeds.

However, when these plants grow in a lawn or a garden you have put a lot of effort into maintaining, they can make it look messy and unkempt. Weeds also take up space, nutrients and water meant for your turfgrass and garden plants, thus weakening them. Some weeds also affect the health of the property owners by stimulating allergies, causing skin irritation and impacting the water quality if they get into the water supply. Therefore, it is important to get rid of the weeds in your yard to preserve both the yard’s health and yours.

In this article, Edenapp will be discussing 22 common garden weeds – their features, harms and treatment options along with the products that are used to treat these weeds.

1. Broadleaf Plantain

Broadleaf plantain is a broadleaf perennial that is found throughout the U.S. and the southern parts of Canada. The plant is rosette-shaped with broad, oval leaves and upright flower stems that develop green-white flowers and seed stalks during summer. Broadleaf plantains grow up to 8 inches in height and 12 inches in width.

The harms of these plantains are that as they grow in clumps, they can quickly choke out other desirable plants and create patches in the lawn that resemble ground cover. They spread through the seeds developed on their stocks and therefore you must be careful when you mow if you have broadleaf plantains in your lawn as the seeds from these stalks might contaminate your lawn mower and spread to different parts of your lawn, increasing their number. Once they spread, they can be stubborn and prove difficult to remove and make your lawn look unsightly.

Broadleaf plantains prefer to grow in compacted soils; therefore aeration can help prevent its growth. Since these plantains spread primarily through seeds, controlling their growth before their seed producing season between June to September is essential. In case of small infestations, you can pull out this weed by hand as its fibrous root system allows it to be pulled up cleanly with a three-claw garden weeder. For larger infestations you will have to use pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides, depending on the time of application.

Pre-emergent applications should be applied before the emergence of the broadleaf plantains during early fall or spring. Some pre-emergent herbicides labeled for broadleaf plantain control are Snapshot (active ingredients – trifluralin and isoxaben), Sureguard (active ingredient – flumioxazin), Spectacle (active ingredient – indaziflam), and Showcase (active ingredients – trifluralin, isoxaben and oxyfluorfen). Post-emergent herbicides are applied on established broadleaf plantains. Post-emergent herbicides labeled for broadleaf control include Roundup (active ingredient – glyphosate) and Finale (active ingredient – glufosinate). For more information on how to treat broadleaf plantain, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Broadleaf plantains are known to have medicinal benefits like encouraging wound healing, decreasing inflammation and improving digestive health. Plantain leaf extracts contain compounds like flavonoids and glycosides which are anti-inflammatory and can help reduce inflammation due to injury. Plantain seeds contain psyllium which is often used as a natural laxative.

Other names for broadleaf plantains include common plantain, buckhorn plantain, dooryard plantain, great plantain, and rippleseed plantain.

2. Nutsedge

Nutsedge is a perennial grass-like weed, also known as nutgrass due to its close resemblance to grass; it is found throughout southern Canada and continental United States. Nutsedge has triangular or v-shaped stems and when you roll the stems between your fingers you will be able to feel their sharp edges. This is what differentiates nutsedge from grass as grasses have round stems. Nutsedge develops flower clusters that are spiky in appearance; these are purple-brown in color in the case of purple nutsedge and yellow-brown in color for yellow nutsedge.

Nutsedge is a very fast growing weed which means that if left unchecked it will quickly take over large patches of the lawn and keep coming back year after year since it’s a perennial. Once established, the roots of nutsedge grow to be drought-tolerant, making it extremely difficult to remove from your lawn. This will harm the appearance and health of your lawn as the nutsedge will choke your turfgrass. Therefore, it is important to deal with nutsedge in the early stages of infestation to preserve the quality of your yard.

Cultural practices to control nutsedge include mulching and ensuring your soil has good drainage as nutsedge tends to grow in soil that is compacted and has poor drainage like heavy clay soil. Overseeding, proper fertilizing and mowing your grass high will also discourage nutsedge as healthy and tall grass will be able to resist weeds better.

If you find small numbers of nutsedge plants on your lawn, you can pull them out by hand but you need to ensure that all underground tubers are also cleared out. Nutsedge spreads through seeds and rhizomes and it is the latter that will affect the control method of pulling the weed out as it is difficult to fully remove the small bulbs and nutlets in the ground as they tend to grow into an extensive network.

Chemical control of nutsedge is required for large infestations and this includes spraying herbicides that are labeled for nutsedge control in lawns but while doing so you should check the label to ensure that the herbicide is safe to use on your grass type and will not kill your turfgrass along with the nutsedge. Some chemicals that work specifically on nutsedge are halosulfuron (for both purple and yellow nutsedge), bentazon (for yellow nutsedge), and imazaquin (for purple nutsedge). Some of the herbicide brands that include these chemicals are SedgeHammer Plus, Monterey Nutgrass Killer Concentrate, Southern Ag Basagran Sedge Control, and Image Nutsedge Killer. For more information on how to treat nutsedge, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Nutsedge is known to have health benefits like reducing the aging effects, remedying indigestion and bowel disorders, reducing inflammation, relieving pain etc. Purple nutsedge is a good source of antioxidants. It has the potential to lower blood sugar levels and limit the growth of certain bacteria, particularly the type that causes tooth decay. Purple nutsedge may also aid in fat breakdown and weight loss.

3. Creeping Charlie

Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, is a broadleaf perennial leaf that belongs to the mint family and therefore spreads just as aggressively. Ground ivy has scalloped or kidney-shaped leaves and creeping stems; it develops lavender or purple flowers during spring and summer and gives a distinctive odor upon being crushed. Creeping Charlie can be found throughout parts of Canada and eastern half of the United States. This perennial weed can grow up to 4 inches in height and several feet in width.

Creeping Charlie spreads aggressively once it infiltrates a lawn, creating large patches that resemble ground cover on the lawn. It prefers shady areas of the lawn and soils that are damp and heavy. Once creeping Charlie has established its presence in a lawn, it may begin to inhibit the growth of the plants surrounding it through a characteristic known as allelopathy where it generates biochemicals that affect the health of the nearby plants. Therefore, it is important to remove, control and prevent the growth of ground ivy in your lawn to avoid choking your precious garden plants and lawn grass.

Employing correct lawn establishment practices like choosing the right grass species for the right area is one cultural method that can help prevent the spread of creeping Charlie in your lawn. For the shaded areas, mixing shade tolerant varieties with your turfgrass will increase the health of your lawn in these regions that receive less sunlight and thus help your lawn grass tackle creeping Charlie which thrives in shaded regions. An example of this is mixing fescues (both tall and fine fescues) with turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrass to increase the lawn’s shade tolerance. Kentucky bluegrass, though it produces a thick, lush high-quality lawn, does not perform well in shady areas.

To remove creeping Charlie that is already present in your lawn, for low numbers you can pull out every individual plant with your hand. As a couple of the methods of propagation for ground ivy is through rhizomes and stem nodes, apart from seeds, it is important to carefully remove all the nodes and roots from the soil because even a single node can set off another infestation quickly after removal.

For a large infestation of ground ivy, chemical controls like spraying of herbicides need to be applied. For effective creeping Charlie control, herbicides with dicamba or triclopyr as the active ingredients must be applied. Some of the brands that create herbicides for ground ivy control are Monterey, Speed Zone, and Gordon’s with dicamba as the active ingredient and Hi-Yield Triclopyr Ester with triclopyr as the active ingredient. Both these chemicals are selective post-emergent herbicides and therefore will not affect the lawn grass. Edenapp still recommends checking the product label before application to ensure that the right quantity of the herbicide is mixed for effective and safe control of creeping Charlie. Post emergent herbicides should be applied during spring and fall. For more information on how to treat creeping Charlie, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

On the regions where grass doesn’t grow or in between stepping stones, ground ivy can be beneficial as ground cover as it will help prevent soil erosion and as a pollinator for bees. But since this is a highly invasive species, Edenapp does not recommend allowing creeping Charlie in your lawn, especially if you have a lot of green space as it will do more harm than good. Creeping Charlie, also known as gill-over-the-ground sometimes, has some health benefits like improving digestion and solving problems like diarrhea, gas, heartburn etc., along with treating skin infections, being a diuretic, improving eye health, and treating ear, nose and throat issues.

4. Bindweed

Bindweed is a perennial broadleaf weed that is a part of the morning glory family and can be found almost throughout the United States and the southern parts of Canada. Bindweed has long winding stems or vines that wind themselves around surrounding plants or ‘bind’ the plants around them. Their leaves are shaped like arrowheads and they develop funnel-shaped or trumpet-shaped pink or white flowers. Bindweed wraps itself around fences and can climb up to six feet or even more.

Bindweed spreads aggressively and thus harms the landscape by choking out native plants if it is not checked; its vines also wrap around surrounding garden plants and end up smothering them. Bindweed seeds in the soil remain viable up to fifty years, which makes this perennial broadleaf a very hard weed to eradicate once it is established. Therefore, bindweeds need to be checked for regularly, controlled and removed in the early stages of infestation, before the weed develops flowers and seeds.

Bindweed cannot be controlled by pulling out as it spreads through rhizomes and underground roots and pulling them will only cause the root to tear up and lead to more bindweed sprouting up from these nodes. The roots of bindweed grow very deep and eventually make the plant drought-tolerant, which is another reason why hand pulling the weeds will not work as it is not possible to reach deep enough to remove all the roots.

A popular non-chemical method to kill bindweed is to repeatedly cut it off at the ground level. Of course, doing this once will not be effective, you need to repeatedly prune it to the ground with shears of a pair of scissors for this method to work whenever it starts to grow again. This type of constant pruning will cause the bindweed to use up all its energy reserves in the roots while being unable to store new energy as the repeated pruning will not allow it to photosynthesize, thus killing the plant eventually.

If the infestation is large, then chemical control methods need to be used to eradicate the bindweed from the lawn. Herbicides with glyphosate (Roundup products) as the active ingredient are the preferred products for controlling bindweed in vegetable gardens and landscape beds. But keep in mind that glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide which means it will kill all vegetation indiscriminately. 

Therefore, Edenapp recommends applying this post-emergent herbicide for bindweed control on a day when it is not windy so that the herbicide spray does not drift to the nearby shrubs and garden plants. Additionally, you can also use cardboard to shield the plants close to the application area from the herbicide spray. But be careful to avoid applying glyphosate products to control bindweed on your lawn as this will kill your turfgrass along with the weed.

For lawns, products with chemical combinations of 2, 4-D, dicamba and MCPP are effective in controlling bindweed;  2, 4-D will not effectively control bindweed on its own. Bindweed is well controlled with the herbicide quinclorac. Quinclorac is also included in a number of professional herbicides like Ortho Weed B Gon MAX Plus Crabgrass Control and Bayer AdvancedTM All-In-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer, which are both available to homeowners. Remember that these herbicides are only approved for use on lawns and cannot be used in landscaping beds or vegetable gardens legally or safely. You will need to apply these herbicides more than once for effective control as the bindweed has a large and hardy root system. For more information on how to treat bindweed, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

The benefits of bindweed are that some pieces of its vines can be used as ties to replace twine when staking and tying plants. Bindweed flowers are really pretty as they belong to the morning glory family and they attract beneficial insects while exuding a soft fragrance. The stems and leaves of bindweed can be crushed to create a natural dye.

Some gardeners choose to hand-pull the bindweed and use it as compost. Bindweeds are dynamic nutrient accumulators which implies that they send their roots deep into the soil to absorb nutrients that are otherwise unavailable in poor, compacted soils. Therefore, they become a rich storehouse of nutrients. Composting these weeds will ensure that all the nutrients from various sublayers of the soil are added to the topsoil, thus enriching the soil. Constantly pulling the bindweed before it develops seeds will not get rid of it but it will weaken it. 

If you want to adopt this method, you need to know that after adding the weed to the compost pile you need to constantly monitor the temperature of the pile to ensure that it remains above 131 degrees Fahrenheit for fifteen consecutive days to sterilize the weeds and seeds that can propagate after cutting.

5. Oxalis

Oxalis, also known as yellow woodsorrel or creeping woodsorrel, is a cool-season broadleaf perennial weed that is found in southern Canada and throughout the United States, especially in coastal areas. It looks similar to clover in appearance with light green, trifoliate (three leaflets) heart-shaped leaves with a crease in the center or a midrib along which the leaves fold when exposed to intense heat and light and during the night. Oxalis also produces bright yellow flowers which mature into capsules containing seeds. When these seeds mature fully they burst from the capsules and are ejected to a substantial range from the parent plant. Oxalis leaves last throughout the year and it develops flowers during the spring and summer.

Oxalis is a highly stubborn and versatile weed that can grow in various conditions like moist or dry soil and sunny or shaded areas. This makes it even more difficult to remove as once established, it grows all year round and is very competitive, thus gaining a foothold over warm-season grasses that grow dormant in the winter. It also spreads very easily with seeds that travel as far as 10 feet from the mother plant when the capsule pops and through bulbs, tubers and roots. Creeping woodsorrel harms a landscape by taking over ornamental planting, container beds, lawns and even driveways. To put it simply, oxalis can spread to every part of your landscape, affecting its quality, health and appearance. 

Another harm of oxalis is that it is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses according to The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®). Oxalis or creeping woodsorrel contains soluble calcium oxalates, which can result in tremors, excessive salivation, and kidney failure for these animals. The toxicity is not limited to certain parts of the plant but is contained in the entire plant. Therefore, if you have curious pets, you’ll need to remove this plant as soon as possible.

Humans can also be poisoned by the oxalis weed, but only when they consume it in large amounts. The leaves and stems, which have a lemon-like flavor and can be thirst-quenching, can be used in salads or cups of tea. You should never use oxalis in excessive dosages since it contains oxalic acid, which binds up your body’s calcium supply. If you do, you risk becoming sick with various symptoms, including dizziness, cramps, and shaking. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent and control oxalis in your landscape.

The cultural methods that can be used to control oxalis are maintaining healthy thick lawns as creeping woodsorrel tends to thrive in lawns that are not dense. Mulching by itself will not prevent the growth of oxalis as it will simply grow via the rhizomes present in the mulch. Thoroughly weeding the area by pulling out all the oxalis and digging out its tubers and bulbs from the soil and then laying a landscape fabric or a weed barrier before placing the mulch will be more effective in preventing oxalis from sprouting up in these areas again. Brown cardboard is an excellent option as a weed barrier as it makes a good barrier and also adds additional organic matter to the soil after it breaks down.

Chemical control of oxalis is required for oxalis that has reached a critical infestation stage and is a threat to the landscape. Fluroxypyr and triclopyr are the two post-emergent broadleaf herbicides that are very effective at controlling creeping woodsorrel seedlings and established plants in cool-season turfgrass lawns. Triclopyr is more widely available than fluroxypyr to the average homeowner. These herbicides are often marketed in a package with other broadleaf herbicides. Some of the commercial herbicide products that contain fluroxypyr include Escalade 2, Momentum FX2, and Battleship III. Commercial products that contain triclopyr include Momentum  FX2, Tailspin, Three-Way Ester II. Turflon Ester Ultra, and Turflon II amine.

Triclopyr isn’t approved for use as a stand-alone herbicide in warm-season turfgrass lawns because it harms bermudagrass and kikuygrass. Use three- and four-way broadleaf weed killers with 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba, and 2,4-DP or MSMA or carfentrazone on these lawns. Atrazine is the best lawn herbicide for controlling oxalis in St. Augustine, zoysia, and centipede lawns. When oxalis is visible in the grass and temperatures are in the mid-80s or lower, apply two applications according to label guidelines in late summer or fall.

Glyphosate (KillzAll, Eraser, Roundup, Grass and Weed Killer, and other brands) is a nonselective systemic herbicide that is successful in controlling oxalis in landscape beds provided you are persistent and apply many applications when the oxalis reappears (generally, 3 to 5 treatments are required). Use glyphosate with caution, as it can harm or kill plants if it comes into contact with their leaves.

During spraying, use a piece of cardboard to protect the leaves of attractive plants, or cover them with plastic bags. Alternatively, attach a funnel-like device to the end of your sprayer to direct the spray only where you want it to go. On windy days, avoid spraying. Although we can use glyphosate quite close to desirable plants, we must avoid getting it on their foliage. For more information on how to treat oxalis, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Yellow woodsorrel is beneficial to pollinators like bees and butterflies and its bright yellow flowers help attract these beneficial insects. Also, oxalis makes the soil rich in phosphorus which is perfect for soils that have low phosphorus concentration. Many homeowners appreciate yellow woodsorrel and even choose to grow it if removing it proves to be too difficult. It’s not only tasty, but it’s also good for you. It can be used as a condiment, in salads, or made into lemonade-like drinks. It can also be consumed as a sour snack while working in the yard. Yellow woodsorrel is used as a diuretic, astringent, stomach soother, and astringent. It’s high in Vitamin C, but keep in mind that it’s also high in oxalic acid, which can be harmful, especially to people with kidney problems.

6. Moss

Moss is classified as Bryophyta, which distinguishes it from the majority of the plants in a regular yard. Mosses produce spores instead of seeds and have no actual roots. They take in moisture and nutrients from the surrounding environment. In lawns, there are various different varieties of moss. They normally appear as coarse, green or yellowish-green lumps strewn about the lawn, but they can occasionally form vast, thickly matted clusters. ​​Individual plants are often made up of basic leaves that are only one cell thick and are joined to a branched or unbranched stem that plays only a minor function in water and nutrient transport.

Moss does not overtake the existing turfgrass or kill it. It grows in areas of the lawn that are bare and not conducive for healthy growth of lawn grass. When moss grows in some patches of your  lawn, it is an indication of underlying landscaping problems like lack of sunlight, poor soil fertility, low soil pH, poor drainage and compacted soil. Moss might not kill the grass when it invades your lawn but it will harm the lawn by preventing turfgrass from growing in the bare spots it has taken over.

If the moss is covering only a small patch of your lawn, you can simply rake it out using a bow rake as moss has a shallow root system that can be pulled out with some brisk raking. This method will be most effective when the soil is moist. A couple of homemade remedies to control moss is to use baking soda or dish soap solution. You can spray this solution right on top of the moss using a sprayer.

For larger patches of moss in your lawn, you might need to use a chemical moss killer. The herbicides that work against other lawn weeds will not be effective against moss. Therefore, you need to use moss killer products that contain iron sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate as the active ingredients. Read the directions given on the product label carefully before mixing to apply so that you don’t apply any excess moss killer. This type of chemical is harmful to aquatic life and underground water, therefore you should use them with caution. These chemicals are short term solutions to a moss problem and need to be followed up with cultural practices to prevent moss from re-growing in the area.

Aeration, thatch removal, providing adequate sunlight by trimming any extensive branches, establishing shade-tolerant grasses in these areas, proper fertilization, correcting soil pH, and improving drainage are some of the processes that will help prevent moss from invading your lawn again after removal. For more information on how to treat moss, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

The same reasons that makes homeowners consider moss as a weed, make other homeowners consider it as a beneficial plant. Moss can grow in areas that turfgrass can’t, namely shady areas with compacted soil that has poor drainage and nutritional levels. Therefore, if you allow moss to grow in these conditions that are favorable to it, you will be able to cover some bare spots in your yard. Moss has shallow roots and therefore you don’t need to do any digging to establish it. Also, moss is low maintenance – it does not require fertilization, frequent watering or mowing. All these characteristics make moss a cheap and perfect choice for fill unsightly bare spots in your lawn.

7. Chickweed

Chickweed, also known as winterweed, starwort and satin flower among other names, is a broadleaf annual weed that is found throughout Canada and the United States. Chickweed has narrow and fleshy leaves with some fuzz on them that makes them look hairy; white flowers bloom in clusters at the end of the chickweed stems during late spring and early summer. Chickweed grows low and spreads, creating a mat-like appearance. In garden beds it can grow upto 6 inches tall but in lawns it rarely grows more than 2 inches in height.

Common chickweed can harm the lawn by creating a favorable environment for unwanted pests, lawn insects and plant viruses like lygus bugs, thrips, cucumber mosaic virus (CMV), and tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV). Also, chickweed can produce up to 800 seeds per plant that remain viable for 8 years within the soil, making this annual broadleaf behave like a perennial by returning year after year.

Chickweed seeds germinate during the cool weather between January to March and once they are established, they will prove difficult to remove and create unsightly patches throughout the landscape and affect its aesthetics. Therefore, it is important to remove common chickweed from the lawn.

Chickweed prefers damp soil in shady areas of the lawn; therefore a cultural practice to prevent the growth of chickweed in the lawn would be deep and infrequent irrigation instead of frequent shallow watering. This will also encourage the roots of your turfgrass to grow deep, thus giving you a healthy lawn that is resistant to drought and disease. Also, establishing shade-tolerant grasses in these areas that can out-compete chickweed will also be beneficial in choking out chickweed. Chickweed in the lawn can also be an indication of compacted soil in your lawn. Therefore, aerating your soil to loosen it will also help tackle chickweed.

A non-chemical way to get rid of chickweed is to pull out the weed by hand but one thing to remember here is that you need to pull the chickweed out when the plant is still small. For larger plants, the root system will also be extensive, which will cause the roots and the stems to break and lead to re-rooting as chickweed spreads through roots and nodes in the stems along with seeds.

For larger infestations, chemical control like post-emergent herbicides containing MCPP, dicamba and/or fluroxypyr need to be applied. Some commercial names for these products are Trimec Classic, Threesome, Lesco Three-Way, 3-D Herbicide, Primera Triplet SF (with 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba as the active ingredients), Surge (with 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba, and sulfentrazone as the active ingredients), Momentum FX2 (with 2,4-D, fluroxypyr, and triclopyr as the active ingredients), and Super Trimec (ester formulation; with 2,4-D, 2,4-DP, and dicamba as the active ingredients).

Make sure to carefully read the directions, guidelines and restrictions given on the product label regarding tolerant turfgrass species, rates, and timing of applications, so you apply only the required amount and do not harm your turfgrass in any way. For more information on how to treat chickweed, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

The benefits of chickweed in the lawn are that it is known as a nutrient accumulator and it attracts pollinators in the spring, bringing these beneficial insects to your lawn and improving your landscape’s ecological balance. Chickweed is known to accumulate phosphorus and potassium which are two of the three essential nutrients for the soil. Chickweed also has medicinal benefits that include treatment of menstrual pain, respiratory illnesses, asthma, constipation, peptic ulcers, etc. 

It can be cultivated in gardens and used in salads instead of lettuce. Chickweed is high in nutrients and delicious, with a flavor that is comparable to spinach and is typically regarded as pleasant and mild. 

Its high concentration of vitamins B, C, and A, as well as a variety of minerals, help in the healing process. It’s been utilized as an anti-inflammatory, pain reliever, digestive aid, and kidney tonic on an internal level. Externally, it is used to treat wounds, psoriasis, acne, eczema, boils, rashes, mild burns, and insect bites. It has a relaxing and cleansing effect due to its cooling and drying characteristics.

8. Purslane

Purslane, also known as little hogweed and pursley among other names, is a broadleaf annual weed that is found throughout the United states and some parts of Canada. Purslane has sprawling succulent stems with fleshy, rubber-like leaves that are ovate and have no hair. The stems of purslane are tinged with purple and its flowers are star-shaped and small in size and yellow in color and they mature into seed pods that are cup-shaped. Purslane can grow upto 6 inches in height and 2 feet in width. This weed grows low, towards the ground and outward in a circular pattern.

Purslane can be harmful to the lawn due to its persistence and invasive properties. A single purslane plant can release up to 240,000 seeds and these seeds are viable for 40 years which means that they can germinate even 40 years after they were first set. This factor makes purslane one of the most persistent and difficult to remove weeds once it is established in the lawn. Purslane also grows aggressively during its growing season, which is in summer.

Purslane is an edible plant but it grows along with a poisonous plant sometimes – spurge. This can cause the homeowner to mistakenly include spurge in their diets which can have severe consequences. Therefore, it is important to remove purslane, especially if you have pets or little children who can ingest it unknowingly.

Cultural methods for the prevention of purslane in the lawn include correct lawn management practices like mowing your lawn on the higher side, fertilizing around four times a year for healthy and thick lawn and following a deep and infrequent irrigation pattern to encourage deep root growth. Creating a 3 inch mulch barrier with ornamental rocks, bark or any ground cover is also recommended by Edenapp as it will effectively prevent the low-growing weed from growing in your landscape.

If the purslane has already started growing in your lawn then hand-pulling them is an effective, non-chemical method to prevent the purslane from spreading and establishing itself in your landscape. 

There are certain things you should keep in mind when hand-pulling the purslane out.

  • You should pull the purslane out when the plant is still young, that is when it has not developed seeds to prevent the seeds from spreading while pulling.
  • Pull the plant firmly from the center of the clump; make sure the entire root is pulled out without breaking.
  • The plant that has been pulled out must be bagged in plastic or paper to prevent the seeds from scattering and setting.
  • Purslane also reproduces through stem nodes; therefore the area should be checked for any stem parts or leaf fragments to prevent these from regenerating.
  • Do not add the purslane to the compost as purslane seeds are capable of maturing even after they are pulled out and hence will spread and re-seed in your lawn when the compost is spread.
  • If you are pulling out mature purslane plants, then you should cover the area with a black plastic landscaping tarp or with heavy-duty trash bags for about 4 to 6 weeks to kill any residual seeds through the heat of the sun on the black plastic and to block any remaining purslane parts from receiving sunlight to grow again.

Larger infestations of purslane can be removed through chemical control. To do this, first you need to pull out all the mature purslane plants as Edenapp has suggested in the above points. After the area is cleared, spray the seedlings or younger purslane plants with a 2,4 D herbicide. Follow this up with a pre-emergent herbicide application in spring, right before the growing season begins to prevent any remaining purslane seeds from re-emerging. Some commercial products that have  2,4-D herbicide as the active ingredient include Trimec, Quali-Pro, Triplet, Surge, End Run, 2,4-D Amine, and Q4 Plus. For more information on how to treat purslane, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Purslane has various health benefits. It is not just edible in the basic sense of the term, it has a lot of nutritional value, even more than some of the vegetables we regularly eat. Purslane is known to have 6 times more vitamin E compared to spinach, 7 times more beta-carotene than carrots, and 9 times more omega-3 fatty acids than avocados; in fact, purslane has more omega-3 fatty acids compared to almost any other plant! Purslane is also considered a natural treatment for insomnia along with being a good source of vitamin C and vitamin A.

Apart from health benefits, purslane is also good as a ground cover. Purslane’s invasive properties can be put to good use in this fashion. Purslane grows near to the ground and spreads out to form a thick mat that keeps the soil cool and moist while suppressing other weeds. This makes purslane a living mulch that can be beneficial to the garden, but it must be controlled because it can easily overpower and choke out other plants.

9. Buckhorn Plantain

Buckhorn plantain, also known as ribwort plantain, ribgrass, lanceleaf plantain and English plantain, is a perennial broadleaf weed that is native to Europe and can be found in both low and high-maintenance turf throughout the Midwest in the United States and in Canada. The leaves of a buckhorn plantain are football-shaped and can grow to 3 to 10 inches long and they are arranged in a rosette at the base of the plant. The leaves are ¼ inch to 2 inches wide with prominent parallel veins and hair at the base of the leaf. Seeds are produced in the fruiting capsules that emerge from flowers on long and leafless stalks. The flowers are white or green in color and bloom from June to September.

Buckhorn plantain harms the lawn by forming dense clusters of individual plants that compete with the desirable grass and plants on your lawn and choke them out, thus creating an unsightly lawn and impacting the time, effort and money you have invested. Therefore, it needs to be eliminated from the lawn.

Buckhorn plantain thrives in landscapes that are not irrigated well and have infrequent mowing practices. Buckhorn plantain has fibrous taproots that can reach deep into the ground for moisture; therefore these plants are drought tolerant once established and thrive in landscapes that receive less than the required amount of water. Therefore, a cultural practice for preventing the growth of buckhorn plantain in the lawn is to ensure that your lawn and the landscaping beds receive the right amount of water and nutrients according to the turfgrass type and plant species and the soil profile. This will make them healthy and enable them to compete against buckhorn plantain.

A non-chemical method to remove buckhorn plantain when they are small in number is to pull them out manually. This needs to be done as soon as you see small buckhorn plantains in your lawn. Removing these plants before they set seed is necessary to prevent them from spreading by seeding. Also, when you pull the plant out, you need to hold the rosette firmly at the base and pull so that the entire taproot comes out without breaking. You need to repeat this process multiple times over the affected area to control the growth of buckhorn plantain there.

For larger infestations of buckhorn plantain, chemical control needs to be used in the form of herbicides. The active ingredients atrazine, indaziflam, isoxaben, and mesotrione are pre-emergent herbicides that inhibit plantain germination in turfgrass. Plantain seedlings can be controlled with repeated applications of post-emergent broadleaf herbicides. Herbicide management of established plants, on the other hand, is challenging; 2,4-D products perform best.

In turfgrass regions where buckhorn plantain weeds have established, use a pre-emergent broadleaf herbicide like isoxaben. To eliminate sprouting seedlings and dormant weeds, apply the pre-emergent herbicide in the off-season when the weeds aren’t actively growing. Isoxaben and other pre-emergents are only effective if applied before the buckhorn plantain seeds germinate.

Apply a post-emergent herbicide with triclopyr or 2,4-D to perennial broadleaf weeds. In the fall, spray the herbicide directly on the buckhorn plantain plants, paying close attention to the label requirements. For more information on how to treat  buckhorn plantain, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Buckhorn plantain, though it is considered a weed in the modern age, has a lot of medicinal uses. Colds, fever, cough, bronchitis, and pain in the breathing passages are all treated with buckhorn plantain. Buckhorn plantain can be gargled for a sore throat or applied to the skin to reduce swelling, mend wounds, and stop bleeding. Buckhorn plantain contains tannins and mucous-like compounds that may aid in relieving pain and inflammation.

10. Quackgrass

Quackgrass, also known as witchgrass, quick grass and couch grass, is a perennial cool-season grass weed that is found almost throughout the United States except for the deep South. It resembles annual ryegrass in appearance but can be differentiated by its distinguishing feature which are clasping auricles by which the leaf blades wrap around the stem of the quackgrass. Sometimes, quackgrass is also mistaken for crabgrass but you can distinguish between the two through their roots – crabgrass has shallow roots while quackgrass has deeper roots with rhizomes. Quackgrass has coarse grass blades that are thicker than most other grass blades, connected to a hollow stem.

Quackgrass can harm your lawn due to its highly invasive nature which means that it reproduces aggressively through rhizomes, taking over large patches of the lawn very quickly by crowding out desirable turfgrass and plants; hence the alternative name, quick grass. Also, quackgrass is known to be allelopathic. Allelopathic plants are those that release chemicals that inhibit the germination and growth of the nearby plants. This characteristic of quackgrass allows it to create almost pure patches of quackgrass in the lawn that cover large percentages of the lawn with unsightly blue-green and ashy looking grass that reduce the aesthetic and quality of the lawn. Therefore, quackgrass needs to be prevented from entering the lawn or eliminated quickly once it enters.

A thick, dense and healthy lawn is the most effective way to prevent most listed weeds from invading your lawn and quackgrass is no exception. Follow landscape management best practices of adequate fertilization, proper irrigation and mowing your lawn to the right height according to the grass type to give your landscape the best shot at outcompeting quackgrass. Also, avoid tilling your lawn frequently as disturbing the soil near a quackgrass patch can aid in the propagation and spread of quackgrass due to rhizomes that get cut during tilling. Therefore, tillage can worsen a quackgrass problem.

Because quackgrass looks so much like other forms of turfgrass, no selective herbicide will get rid of it without causing damage to your lawn. So tackling this weed might be a challenge. Application of a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate (like Roundup) or a glyphosate substitute is one of the most successful strategies to control this weed. Herbicides that aren’t selective will kill any vegetation they come into touch with, so avoid using them on grass or other desirable plants.

When using a herbicide to kill quackgrass in your lawn, follow the steps below.

  • If it is possible, remove any desirable plants you want to protect from the surrounding area so that they are not affected by any herbicide drift.
  • Hand-pull as much quackgrass as possible, taking care not to disperse seeds by bagging the weeds in plastic or paper.
  • Remove any traces of the quackgrass root system that you find in the soil to prevent the weed from re-emerging through rhizomes.
  • Use a non-selective herbicide to treat the area you have just cleared.
  • After a week has passed since the first application, treat the soil with the herbicide once more.
  • Allow any remaining quackgrass to die before clearing and reseeding the area.
  • During the growth season, check your lawn weekly to make sure quackgrass hasn’t returned, especially if you have loamy (equal parts of silt and sand and with minimal clay) or sandy soil (mostly sand with little clay and silt).
  • If you notice a recurrence in your yard, act swiftly to prevent the quackgrass from spreading in your lawn again by following the methods outlined above.

For more information on how to treat quackgrass, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

While quackgrass is considered a nuisance in lawns, it can be helpful in some other sectors. It is possible to use quackgrass as hay or pasture. Quackgrass has a total (dry) crude protein level comparable to timothy when harvested at the same development stage. Quackgrass effectively binds the soil on slopes and embankments with its dense mat of rhizomes and roots, actively decreasing soil erosion.

Quackgrass has been shown to be one of the most successful plants for reclaiming nutrients like nitrogen from sewage effluent that is applied to vegetation.

Quackgrass extracts have been reported to have insecticidal qualities against molluscs (particularly slugs) and mosquito larvae. A medicinal benefit of quackgrass is that its rhizomes can be ground and used to make teas after drying them or as flour.

11. Shepherd’s Purse

Shepherd’s purse is a broadleaf winter annual weed that is found throughout North America. Shepherd’s purse is named so due to the shape of its seedpods (heart-shaped), which are thought to match the leather purses used by shepherds in the Middle Ages. Medicines have been made from parts of the plant to treat excessively heavy menstrual flow and nosebleeds. 

Shepherd’s purse has arrow-shaped and toothed leaves that form a flat rosette at the base. Seeds develop from the flower stem that sprouts after the plant reaches maturity. Flowering occurs primarily in late winter or early spring, but it can occur at any time of year given appropriate conditions. Flower stalks are usually 2/5 to 3/5 of an inch and grow erect or somewhat horizontally. The flowers have four white petals that are tinted with pale pink at times and narrow near the base.

With three generations every year, a single shepherd’s purse plant can generate an average of 2-3000 seeds. Seeds live for a long time in the soil that is they are viable for upto 35 years and germinate quickly if they are brought to the soil surface through tilling or cultivation.

White blister, a foliar disease that affects members of the Brassicaceae (cabbage and mustard families), Asteraceae (daisy, aster, sunflower or composite family), and Aizoaceae (ice-plant family of succulents) families, is a common host plant for the weed. The disease may be carried by shepherd’s purse, which increases the risk of it spreading to ornamentals and food plants in these families. This weed can also operate as a reservoir, allowing the disease to persist in a garden even when no susceptible plants are present. Therefore, shepherd’s purse is harmful for the health of the landscape and needs to be removed.

Pulling up small numbers of shepherd’s purse in your garden is the easiest non-chemical way to keep it under control. Controlling it with herbicides and cultivation practices might potentially damage beneficial garden plants. Because this weed grows so close to the surface, frequent mowing is ineffective in controlling it.

The younger plants can be pulled out by hand or with a hoe. To avoid bringing up dormant seeds, don’t remove too much dirt. If you’re going to rip out shepherd’s purse, make sure to cover the entire garden with mulch, about 3 inches deep. Crops having a high seeding rate will be able to compete successfully with shepherd’s purse if you plant them.

For larger infestations you will need to employ chemical control with herbicides. Post-emergent herbicides can be used in lawns and open spaces. After the seeds germinate and the weed starts to grow, these post-emergent herbicides destroy the weeds. Look for a post-emergent that is suitable for shepherd’s purse according to the product label. Herbicides containing 2, 4-D and MCCP will give you good results. Carefully follow the directions on the packaging. Spraying success is contingent on paying close attention to the ideal conditions for spraying. Late fall applications of post-emergent herbicides will be more effective as the fall weather provides favorable conditions for herbicide translocation. For more information on how to treat shepherd’s purse, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Shepherd’s purse has a few medicinal benefits. The plant’s stems, leaves, and blossoms are used in modern supplements and traditional medicine to promote wound healing and alleviate bleeding diseases such as menstrual disorders, postpartum bleeding, and circulatory and heart problems.

12. Dollarweed

Dollarweed, sometimes known as pennywort, is a perennial warm season weed.  Dollarweed gets its common name from its silver–dollar-shaped leaves. Dollarweed leaves are circular, fleshy, brilliant green, and resemble little lily pads with a scalloped edge, about 1-2″ in diameter. It spreads through seeds, rhizomes, and tubers and has a low-growing habit. It is most commonly found in gardens and lawns that are moist. Dollarweed flowers are small and white and they bloom from July through August.

Dollarweed is frequently mistaken for dichondra. The positioning of the leaf stem is one way to tell the difference between the two. The stem of dollarweed is in the center of the leaf, whereas the stem of dichondra is at the periphery.

Dollarweed harms your lawn by invading areas that have too much water. Thin turf in moist regions can be swiftly taken over by this tenacious and hardy plant, whether it’s due to over-irrigation, too much rain, or inadequate soil drainage. Dollarweed is tough to eradicate because it spreads via seeds and underground roots. Dollarweed, like many other weeds, may be easier to manage than to eradicate.

Some of the cultural methods to prevent and control dollar weed are reducing irrigation and improving the drainage of the soil. Dollarweed tends to thrive in moist soils; therefore following the proper irrigation method of deep and infrequent watering will ensure that all the water provided will get absorbed by the soil, not leaving damp patches on the lawn. On the days it rains, you can reduce your irrigation amount to make sure you don’t overwater your lawn. If your lawn has poor drainage, then you need to take appropriate measures to improve it to ensure proper flow of water.

Dollarweed can be controlled by hand pulling or digging it out, especially if it is just starting to spread or there are only a few plants. Dollarweed spreads via tubers and rhizomes as well as seeds, so it’s important to get the complete root system and take the plants up before they start to set seed. When the soil is moist from recent rainfall or extra watering, it becomes much easier to pull these plants out without disrupting the root system. Pullings will almost certainly have to be repeated in order to attain sufficient control.

For larger infestations of dollarweed, you may need to use a broadleaf herbicide. The herbicides should be applied while the weeds are actively growing. Choose a herbicide that is both labeled for dollarweed and safe for your grass type. Dollarweed is a common invader of warm-season lawns, which can be negatively affected by generic herbicides. Atrazine (which needs professional application), Image (Imazaquin), and 2,4-D have all had some effectiveness with dollarweed, despite the fact that they all carry health risks. Dollarweed leaves can also be sprayed with a broad-spectrum herbicide (such as Roundup). For more information on how to treat dollarweed, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Dollarweed can also be beneficial in some cases as it is edible and can be used in food items and it also has medicinal properties. Dollarweed is linked to celery, as evidenced by its taste. It has a strong parsley flavor and a pleasant crunch. Eat it fresh in salads, juice it, steep it in hot or cold tea, or put it in soda. To prepare a gorgeous, deep green syrup, juice the leaves and add sugar. Serve over crushed ice or ice cream. Excellent in stir-fries, soups, and stews. 

Dollarweed has antibiotic, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s high in vitamin B, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, and zinc, and it promotes digestion. Dollarweed is beneficial to people suffering from arthritis, as well as those who want to preserve their connective tissue from aging or are suffering from age-related aches and pains.

13. Cinquefoil

Cinquefoil is a broad category of weeds that involves more than 300 hundred species of plants that belong to the rose family. The name ‘cinquefoil’ refers to the five-leaved compound leaf, that is the five leaflets that together form the compound leaf. Cinquefoils are mostly perennial plants with creeping or erect stems. The leaflets of the compound leaf emerge from a shared core or form a feather-like shape. In horticultural variants, the five-petaled flowers are commonly yellow, but they can also be white or red. They bear fruits that look a lot like dried strawberries. 

Some cinquefoil varieties that have been listed as noxious weeds are common cinquefoil, creeping cinquefoil, and sulfur cinquefoil. Creeping cinquefoil is an invasive weed; each plant produces up to 15 runners, each having approximately 20 rooting nodes that are capable of establishing a deep taproot quickly. In this manner, the weed has the capacity to colonize 10 square meters (107 square feet) in one season, suffocating plants in borders and beds.

Sulfur cinquefoil is also a noxious weed that chokes out native forbs and grasses and is even capable of outcompeting certain other invasive plants. It’s also drought resistant and versatile. A single sulfur cinquefoil plant can live for up to 20 years and produce 5000 seeds.

For small numbers of cinquefoil weeds that might have popped up in your lawn, you can remove them by hand-pulling them. Pulling these weeds out when the soil is wet will make it easier to remove the whole plant without any breakage as it is essential to remove the entire taproot to prevent the weed from regrowing. If the weed has spread to an extent, the roots will have runners which also need to be removed. For this you can use weeding tools or a sharp garden trowel as simply hand-pulling them out might not be as effective.

Sulfur cinquefoil cannot be controlled by mowing, as mowing will only increase  the population by encouraging crown-sprouting and propagating the infestation if the plants have already produced seeds. If the soil is loose and moist enough, the majority of the sulfur cinquefoil’s woody roots can be efficiently removed by digging in the case of small numbers.

For larger infestations, chemical control needs to be used. Post-emergent herbicides containing the active ingredients 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA, and dicamba (Bayer, React-Ultra, Scotts) are effective against cinquefoil weeds. Non-selective herbicides containing glyphosate (Roundup) can also be used to control cinquefoil but you should be careful to not let this herbicide come in contact with other desirable plants as it will indiscriminately kill them as well. For more information on how to treat cinquefoil, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Cinquefoil, though a weed in residential and commercial lawns, has a lot of health and medicinal benefits. It is one of the safest natural astringents and hence it is used to treat intestinal issues like diarrhea and also sore throats. All parts of the plant are strongly astringent and antibiotic. It is also beneficial as an anti-inflammatory substance and can be used in the form of a topical solution or ingested.

14. Canada Thistle

Canada thistle is a broadleaf perennial weed; native to Europe, it is found in most parts of the United States and some parts of Canada. Canada-thistle has lance-shaped, alternate, irregularly lobed leaves with wavy spiny/toothed borders. The stems are normally smooth, however they might have small hairs and be a little grooved. Purple and pink flowers, with a hint of white, bloom in clusters near the stem’s end and blossom in July and August after beginning to emerge in late June. Buds are spineless with a tear-drop shape and are usually 1/2 inch wide and 3/4 to 1 inch long. In the fall or early spring, seedlings appear as little rosettes before bolting into upright branched flowering stalks. When the flowers turn into seedheads with distinct white fluffy topping in mid-July, this plant is most noticeable. Seeds linked to “fluff” could become airborne and then spread to other regions.

Canada thistle harms the lawn by completely taking over large patches of the lawn and choking out the turfgrass. It is a highly invasive weed that reproduces aggressively through vegetative buds in its root system and also through seeds. Canada thistle’s horizontal roots can spread up to 15 feet or even more and its vertical roots can grow anywhere from 6 feet to 15 feet deep. Canada thistle has a wide range of tolerance of moisture conditions, that is, it can thrive in different levels of moisture and this makes different areas of the lawn susceptible to its invasion. This is the reason they are on the list of noxious weeds and are known to be one of the most difficult weeds to remove from the lawn. Therefore, proper prevention and control methods need to be adopted to avoid Canada thistle invasion.

One cultural way to prevent Canada thistle from outcompeting your turfgrass is to ensure the soil is appropriately fertilized and the grass has all the necessary nutrients as a result to grow thick and healthy. A dense lawn can outcompete Canada thistle and prevent it from overtaking patches of your lawn.

A non-chemical way to manage Canada thistle in your lawn is to find each plant and cut the shoot to the ground level. You need to do this every time you see new growth emerge as the aim is to make the weed use up all the energy stored in its roots and weaken and die. This is a long process and requires a lot of patience to be successful. It is important to remember that Canada thistle is a very stubborn and persistent weed and therefore cannot be removed completely at one time. Additionally, you need to avoid tilling your lawn frequently as tillage will cause the extended roots of Canada thistle to break, leading to new shoots emerging from the fragments and worsening your Canada thistle problem.

For larger infestations, chemical methods need to be used to control Canada thistle. Herbicides are one of the most effective ways to eradicate thistle. Glyphosate 4 or 2-D Amine are excellent herbicides for dealing with thistle plants since they are systematic and kill the plant all the way down to the root. Herbicide should be applied in the fall and then again in the spring, as this is when Canada thistle would be the most vulnerable. When applying herbicides, be sure to only spray the thistle because they will damage other plants as they are non-selective. Herbicides on thistle plants work best on warmer days; therefore, the best time to apply them is on days that are sunny with temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Canada thistle management plans that combine the application of specific foliar herbicides in the fall and early spring, along with mowing throughout the weed’s growing season during the pre-flower period, have shown to produce excellent results, especially when followed up with management for several years until the population is substantially reduced. Restoring the treated sites by encouraging new and previously established location-specific species of native plants can also help to ensure long-term control and avoid the emergence of new populations. For more information on how to treat Canada thistle, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Despite its reputation as an unwelcome addition to residential and commercial landscapes, thistle provides a variety of ecological benefits, including breaking and loosening hardpan soil in regions of thick clay and producing nectar for pollinators like butterflies, bees, beneficial insects, and birds. Canada thistle also has been noticed to  shield developing trees from nibbling animals while also providing cover for birds.

Canada thistle also has various food and medicinal benefits. The thistle, which belongs to the artichoke family, has a little edible nubbin in its flower head. The flower head is collected in order to curdle milk. Flowers, roots, leaves, stems, oil, and seeds of Canada thistle are all edible, according to Plants for a Future. The stem contains a fiber that can be used to make paper. Milk thistle seeds contain four to six percent silymarin, which is farmed on a bigger scale for the pharmaceutical sector in many countries. Silymarin has shown promising results in the treatment of Type 2 diabetes. In addition, silymarin is being studied as an anti-liver cancer agent in persons who are at risk for the disease, such as those with cirrhosis of the liver.

15. Lambsquarters

Lambsquarters, also known as common lambsquarters and white goosefoot among other names, is a broadleaf summer annual weed found throughout most of Canada and the United States. Young lambsquarter seedlings have green leaves that have a faint bluish tint at the top and undersides that are reddish-purple in color. The young seedlings’ leaves are covered in clear, glossy granules. The granules eventually transform into a white powdery covering on the undersides of the leaves, and this is very evident, making it easy to identify this weed. Mature leaves of lambsquarters are lancet-shaped or oblong, light gray-green in color, and wider towards the stem and narrower near the tip. These leaves tend to fold up along their central vein. The edges of the leaves are wavy or serrated.

Lambsquarter grows quickly and aggressively competes with nearby plants. This weed can grow up to 6 feet tall if left untreated. Lambsquarters can adapt to practically any surrounding condition and thrive in it; therefore it can be found in gardens, lawns, crop fields, pastures, and roadsides. Emerging lambsquarters infestations can look spotty at first, but they can swiftly grow dense, competing with turfgrass and desirable plants for water and nutrients and eventually smothering them. Therefore, they can harm the health and aesthetics of your landscape and need to be controlled and removed.

The only way lambsquarter weed propagates is through seeds. The majority of this weed’s seeds germinate during the latter half of spring or in early summer; however they also tend to germinate all through the growing season as well. The flowers bloom during late summer or early autumn and produce a large number of seeds at maturity. Lambsquarter can produce up to 72,000 seeds per plant, and these seeds can survive in the soil for up to 20 years and germinate. 

Therefore, a non-chemical way of controlling small numbers of lambsquarter growth in your lawn is to hand-pull the weeds out before they start producing seeds. Lambsquarter is easy to pull out as it only has a short taproot. You can also use a hoe to pull out the weed plant and after pulling out you need to mulch the cleared area to prevent further germination. Since lambsquarter is a summer annual, it will die by the time the first frost arrives and new plants will only grow the next year if there are any weed seeds left behind in the soil.

Following cultural practices like proper lawn management techniques will prevent this weed from invading your lawn in the first place. Lambsquarter weed will be taken down before there is an opportunity to produce seeds if lawns are consistently mowed to the recommended height according to the grass type. If your soil is compacted, aerate the lawn and reduce foot traffic on the lawn to offer the turfgrass a shot at outcompeting lambsquarter. Proper maintenance of the lawn with an appropriate fertilizing and watering schedule is essential to having a healthy lawn.

Herbicides that are labeled for specific crops can be used to manage large populations of lambsquarters. Selective herbicides with the active component dicamba, are often used to successfully suppress this weed, especially in its early phases of growth. In North America, prevalent lambsquarters biotypes have acquired resistance to herbicides from the ALS-inhibitor and triazine families. For more information on how to treat lambsquarters, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Despite its status as a weed in most states, lambsquarter has many nutritional and medicinal benefits. One cup of lambsquarter leaves, which may be easily harvested from a single mature plant, contains a significant amount of B vitamins along with vitamin A and vitamin C. It also contains high levels of copper, iron, and potassium and is a rich source of manganese and calcium.  It’s an excellent secondary source of fiber and protein, just like many other greens.

Bites and minor abrasions, along with sunburns, can be soothed by chewing the lambsquarter leaves into a poultice. When applied topically to arthritic aches and joint inflammation, this poultice could provide relief. Gastrointestinal difficulties can be treated with tea brewed from lambsquarter leaves, and raw leaves can help with anemia. The tender leaves from young plants are frequently utilized in green juices to aid in the detoxification of the body. It’s vital to taste ripe leaves before harvesting a lot, since they may get too astringent in taste.

16. White Clover

White clover is a perennial broadleaf weed that is native to Europe but can be found throughout North America. It is a low-growing, creeping plant with characteristic compound leaves and three egg-shaped leaflets of the same size. White symmetrical marks are seen on leaves. On leafless stalks, white flowerheads grow above the foliage. White clover prefers moist and cool soils. White clover spreads through low-creeping stolons, forming mat-like patches on the lawn. Stems can be hairless or have a thin covering of hairs. White clovers’ leaves are usually grouped in threes, but the presence of four leaves can give them a ‘4-leaf clover’ or a ‘shamrock’ appearance.

White clover flowers bloom from the mid of May to the end of September and these flowers are white in color with a slight pink tinge. These flowers mature into seeds whose coats are very hard and therefore they can remain dormant in the soil for a long time.

White clover is one of the most common lawn weeds that can easily take over large patches of under-fertilized lawn, especially the shaded areas. This was not originally considered a weed and therefore some homeowners do not mind having white clover in their lawns. Other homeowners do not prefer the distinctive patches it creates in their lawn, especially during the blooming season when small white flowers grow throughout these patches as they make the lawn look unsightly.

As white clover belongs to the legume family and is capable of producing its own nitrogen, it tends to invade lawns that are not adequately fertilized, that is, soils that are low in nitrogen. Therefore, large infestations of clover in your lawn can be prevented by providing enough nitrogen to the soil and following proper lawn management practices like mowing the lawn to the recommended height according to grass type and providing adequate irrigation as this will ensure that the lawn grass is thick and dense, capable of outcompeting white clover invasions.

A common, non-chemical way to control small numbers of white clover in the lawn is by hand pulling them. Because white clover grows in clusters, manual pulling is simple and effective. To prevent regrowth, make sure you remove as much of the root system as possible while hand plucking white clover.

For larger infestations of white clover, chemical management is required to control them. Herbicides including fluroxypyr. dicamba, quinclorac, and clopyralid are the most effective against this weed. White clover control is usually quite good with products that comprise a mixture of these active substances. Foliage regrowth can occur after herbicide treatments in the spring. Herbicide sprays in the fall are frequently the most efficient way to reduce white clover. For more information on how to treat white clover, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

White clover, though considered a weed today, was not always termed so and therefore is only considered bad by homeowners who want a single type of grass growing in their lawn. There are a lot of benefits to having clover in your lawn. White clover can fix its own nitrogen and therefore does not need a lot of fertilizer. If you have a dog that frequently relieves itself in your lawn, creating yellow patches, you should consider letting clover grow in these patches as they are immune to ‘dog patches’ and will keep your lawn looking green. White clover also attracts beneficial insects like pollinators that will help maintain your lawn’s ecological balance and natural predators like parasitoid wasps that will feed on scales, whiteflies and aphids to protect your landscape from pests.

17. Pigweed

Pigweeds are broadleaf summer annual weeds that are found throughout North America, especially in the southwest region. Pigweeds are a broad category under which several closely related species are included like prostrate pigweed, redroot pigweed, powell amaranth, tumble pigweed, palmer amaranth, smooth pigweed, spiny pigweed, and waterhemp. Pigweeds develop to be huge, erect-to-bushy plants with regular, stalked leaves grouped alternately on stems, reaching 2–7 feet in height. The leaf blades are 2–6 inches long and oval to diamond shaped. The smaller leaves of the prostrate pigweed form a low, spreading mat with a unique distinctive notched tip.

Prostrate pigweed poses a risk to gardens and lawns while others like palmer amaranth and waterhemp are the most troublesome in vegetable gardens and crop rows. Most pigweeds are extremely competitive and produce a large number of seeds (upto 100,000 seeds per plant) that remain viable in the soil for around 20 years. This makes pigweed a very persistent weed that can prove hard to remove unless control methods are employed regularly. Pigweeds have been found to harbor pest nematodes as well as a variety of vegetable crop diseases, including fungus that causes early blight, lettuce drop, and southern blight in a variety of crops. Pigweeds can also spread viral pathogens like tomato spotted wilt virus and cucumber mosaic virus.

Small numbers of pigweed can be pulled out by hand to control the infestation but this needs to be done when the plants are still young, before they produce seeds to achieve effective control. Hold the weed plant at the center and pull it out firmly to ensure it comes out cleanly with its taproot. Removing these weeds before they set seed will substantially affect their chances of returning the following year. Prostrate pigweed prefers growing in sandy soil, therefore improving the quality of your soil will help prevent the growth of these persistent weeds in your lawn.

For larger infestations, chemical methods need to be employed. For some pigweed varieties like prostrate pigweed and spiny pigweed, post-emergent herbicides that contain the chemicals, glufosinate-ammonium, dicamba, or glyphosate  Both glufosinate-ammonium and glyphosate are non-selective weed killers that destroy any plant they come into contact with, hence they must only be used in areas where all weeds and plants must be removed. Dicamba-based weed killers are selective for weeds like prostrate pigweed and can be applied around landscape plants. 

Pigweed species are known to develop resistance to herbicides pretty quickly. Therefore, using only glyphosate is not recommended by Edenapp. Use a few different combinations of chemicals that are known to control pigweed like 2,4-D and atrazine to ensure that the pigweed does not become resistant to the herbicides you are applying. For more information on how to treat pigweed, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Every part of the pigweed plant is edible, but the most tender and tastiest parts are the new leaves and developing tips on older plants. The seeds are nutrient-rich, delicious, and easy to harvest. Stick to the new shoots and young leaves if you want to consume them uncooked. These can be utilized in the same way that spinach or salad greens are. Young and older leaves can be sautéed or steamed and eaten in the same way that chard or turnip greens are. Calcium, iron and v Vitamins A and C are all found in the leaves.

Pigweeds are considered good for constipation, controlling weight, preventing lung infections and common summer illnesses and reducing cholesterol levels among other things.

18. Annual Bluegrass

Annual bluegrass is one of the most common annual grassy weeds found in lawns; it is also known as poa annua It is often mistaken for Kentucky bluegrass due to their similar appearance; the differences between the two being that the root system of poa annua is shallower, it has lighter green color and it grows seed heads on its stalks. Annual bluegrass grows low and dense, approximately 3-12 inches tall. Its leaf blades are yellowish-green in color and sometimes dark green as well and they are hairless. The blades have a crease in the middle. The roots system of annual bluegrass is fibrous and new roots grow from low stem nodes. Annual bluegrass flowers from December through July and the flowerheads are egg-shaped or triangular. In some regions, annual bluegrass develops flowers all year round.

Annual bluegrass or poa annua needs to be controlled or removed from lawns because since it is an annual weed that germinates in fall, it dies down during hot and dry conditions, creating dry and brown patches in the lawn. In small numbers, the white seed heads on its stalks are not too visible but in large numbers, this will make the lawn look unsightly. As it produces hundreds of seeds, small numbers can multiply very quickly and can prove very difficult to control. Therefore to maintain the quality and appearance of the lawn, it is important to remove poa annua.

Some cultural methods to prevent annual bluegrass from invading your lawn in the first place are mowing the lawn high, avoiding over-irrigation, and fertilizing regularly.  Lawns should be regularly fertilized, about four times a year, so that the soil does not lack any nutrients and the grass remains healthy, keeping the lawn thick and lush, not leaving any room for weeds to sprout. 

Mowing your grass high, like fertilization, is another cultural practice for preventing poa annua in your lawn. Poa annua grows short, therefore mowing your lawn high, approximately three to four inches, will allow your grass to crowd out the weeds. Because poa annua has shallow roots that are fed by extra water, the best growing conditions for it are shady sections of your lawn mixed with excess moisture. As a result, avoid overwatering your grass, especially in gloomy locations, to prevent its weak roots from receiving enough water to flourish.

If the weed infestation has reached a level where it is posing a risk to the health and quality of the landscape, then certain chemical methods like pre-emergent herbicides and post-emergent herbicides combined with spot treatment need to be applied. Annual bluegrass seeds are hardy, and the sheer amount of them generated each year can make this grassy weed difficult to control without the use of chemicals. As a result, Edenapp recommends using pre-emergent applications to control annual bluegrass. Some of the products recommended by Edenapp for pre-emergent poa annua control are Dimension 2EW Herbicide and The Andersons Barricade Pre-Emergent Weed Control; both these products are selective and do not harm ornamentals.

Post-emergent herbicides should be applied in combination with pre-emergent applications to provide effective control of weed grass seeds that germinate late and also to kill any established annual bluegrass. Some of the products recommended by Edenapp for post-emergent herbicide applications are Quali-Pro Negate 37WG Herbicide and Certainty Herbicide. 

Another method to control poa annua in your yard with minimum damage to the surrounding grass, especially if it’s cool-season grass is to spot treat your yard. Find the patches on your lawn where the annual bluegrass is trying to overtake your turfgrass and apply non-selective herbicides to treat the weeds in those patches. Some of the products recommended by Edenapp for spot treatment of poa annua in your lawn are Roundup products like Roundup Pro Max and Roundup Super Concentrate Weed & Grass Killer. For more information on how to treat annual bluegrass, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Poa annua is a very adaptable grass which makes it an excellent option for golf course grass mixes. They can be mowed extremely low, tolerate stress, be dried out for play on the weekends, be aggressively verticut on a bi-weekly basis and yet they bounce back pretty quickly. Therefore they are beneficial to improve playability on golf courses.

19. Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a summer annual grassy weed that is native to Europe but found throughout the United States and in southern Canada. Crabgrass seedlings with wide, pointed leaves resemble corn plants. The plants will generate side shoots as they mature. These branches will grow and root into the ground, giving the plant its popular name and giving it a zigzag appearance. The leaves of crabgrass are lime green or yellowish green in color and are wider than those of your turfgrass.

Crabgrass comes in two varieties: short or smooth, and huge or hairy. Although the base of the stems may be hairy, the leaves themselves are smooth or hairless. This grass is also a low-growing, nearly creeping kind. Hairy crabgrass contains hairs on both the lower and upper and surfaces of the blades and grows more erect. 

Crabgrass harms the lawn by affecting its appearance and therefore the aesthetics and value of your property. Crabgrass is an unsightly, lumpy weed that takes over your lawn very quickly. Its unattractive appearance isn’t the sole reason to get rid of it; it’s also harmful for the health of your lawn. Crabgrass will spread to large areas of your lawn and prevent your turfgrass from getting the moisture and nutrients it requires to remain healthy. Crabgrass germinates in spring, flourishes through summer and then dies in the fall and this creates more stalk space for lawn pests to thrive in your lawn.

Another reason why crabgrass is detrimental for the lawn is because it is stealthy in its growth, becoming greedy for space and spreading throughout the summer. Crabgrass is more difficult to kill as the weather warms. The reason it’s notorious for spreading quickly is because of this. In fact, crabgrass can yield up to 80,000 seeds per plant and  these seeds will not be harmed by the cold. This implies that the seeds are resting on the lawn, waiting to sprout in the spring. Therefore, a small amount of this annual weed one season can transform into twice as much the next.

For effective control of crabgrass, you need to start pulling it out as soon as you see small clusters start springing up in your lawn and you need to do so before they produce and disperse their seeds. If you let the crabgrass remain in your lawn till they produce seeds, then the crabgrass will become a recurring problem as the seeds in the soil will keep germinating year after year. 

Use a garden weeder tool to pull out the crabgrass along with its roots. To remove the plant, these tools usually have a plunger or claw or that you may push deep into the earth, under the roots. This process takes a long time to complete, but it is successful in controlling crabgrass. Put the grass clumps you have pulled out in a garbage bag and close it tightly. This will keep any crabgrass seeds from sprouting and spreading.

Pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides can be used to selectively control large infestations of crabgrass in lawns. Herbicide applications must be done at the right time. Herbicides should be applied when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit consistently for a few days at the least.  When crabgrass has two to five leaves, post-emergent herbicides should be applied. These applications might need to be repeated depending on the type of herbicide you are using to treat crabgrass. Edenapp suggests reading the product label carefully before application to ensure that the herbicide is selective and will not harm your lawn grass.

To prevent crabgrass from invading your lawn again, you might need to do another herbicide application in early spring before the crabgrass seed germinates along with following proper lawn management practices. Mow your lawn grass high (about 3 inches), irrigate your lawn deeply and infrequently instead of regular light irrigation and don;t fertilize your lawn in the summer as the crabgrass thrives during this season and will absorb all the nutrients you are providing your lawn. For more information on how to treat crabgrass, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Even though crabgrass is considered a weed in residential and commercial lawns, it has its benefits in the form of cattle fodder. Crabgrass’ ability to thrive even in poor soil conditions make it excellent for use as a summer feed grass for cows, sheep, and horses in various regions of the country. Crabgrass is appetizing to grazing animals, according to the University of Florida. When they graze on millet, sorghum, or other grains and summer grasses, they eat more and acquire more weight. Another benefit of crabgrass is that a fiber contained by it is used to make paper.

20. Dandelion

Dandelion, also known as puff ball or blow ball, is a perennial broadleaf weed and a member of the daisy, composite or asteraceae family. It is one of the most easily identifiable weeds and is found in gardens, landscapes, nursery crops, and lawns throughout the United States and Canada. It grows a strong taproot that grows in the upper six to eighteen inches of the soil. Buds emerge from the root’s highest portion, forming a crown that can produce “new” plants even when the plant is severed at or below the soil surface.

There are no actual stems; instead, the leaves are gathered at the plant’s base in a rosette.   The leaves’ margins are deeply serrated, giving the classic “lion’s tooth” appearance because of which it is also commonly called so. Dent-de-lion means “tooth of the lion” in French. Flowers bloom in May and June, followed by another bloom in the autumn. Solitary bright yellow flower heads grow at the tips of hollow, leafless flower stems. The small, single-seeded fruits have a fluffy pappus connected to a long stem and are yellow brown in color. The fruits combine to produce a grayish-white seedhead with a globe shape.

Dandelions can grow into a dense carpet of leaves, crowding out preferred species of plants and grass and lowering the strength of those that survive. It develops clumps in turf, causing uneven footing on lawns, golf courses and athletic fields. The texture and color of dandelion blossoms differ from that of your desirable turfgrass, and its yellow flowers detract from the visual quality of residential lawns and other turf locations. Dandelion blossoms are capable of attracting bees, which can be an issue in areas with adults and children who are allergic to bees. Therefore, it is necessary to remove dandelions from your lawn as they can affect the health and aesthetic quality of the lawn.

Control on small numbers of dandelions can be improved by digging up and pulling out as much of the dandelion taproot as possible. Dandelion knives or other weeding tools that are similar can be used to remove individual plants with minimal soil disturbance. But you need to know that these tools are only effective if the taproot is completely removed. Adjusting fertilization procedures to reduce potassium (K) or potash (K2O) levels may assist in reducing dandelion infestations, but this is a time-consuming operation and can take many years to achieve control. Increased mowing heights, fertilization, and watering may aid in the development of a dense, vigorous grass capable of outcompeting sprouting dandelion plants. After pulling the taproot out you can pour some natural herbicide into the hole to prevent the dandelion from springing up again.

For larger numbers of dandelions you will need chemical control. Isolated plants can benefit from spot-spraying with translocated herbicides (2,4-D, glyphosate, MCPA, triclopyr, dicamba, mecoprop, and so on). Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide that kills turfgrass while leaving open regions, although most grass species are unaffected. Bermudagrass and other warm-season grasses should not be treated with triclopyr. To reestablish a robust lawn, overseed any open patches with grass seed that is comparable to the grass type you already have on your lawn.

Carfentrazone, a traditional broadleaf herbicide, as well as iron HEDTA, a biopesticide, have both been shown to control tiny dandelion seedlings.

Pre-emergent herbicides containing isoxaben and dithiopyr have proven to be efficient in controlling dandelions. Pre-emergent herbicides must be administered to the soil prior to seed germination. Before you apply any chemical products make sure to read the product label carefully to ensure the product is safe to use for your grass type. For non-selective herbicides, you need to stick to spot-treatment of dandelion patches to avoid burning your turfgrass. For more information on how to treat dandelion you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Though dandelion is an unwanted species in residential lawns, it is beneficial in natural environments. The strong root systems of dandelions, which can reach three feet in length, are capable of loosening compacted soil. This aerates the soil and helps water and minerals to enter deeper. Dandelions also take nutrients from the soil and give them back to the plants surrounding them. The roots of dandelion hold the soil firmly and thus help in reducing soil erosion.

21. Black Medic

Black medic, also known as hop medic, yellow trefoil and black clover among other names, is a broadleaf summer annual weed that is found throughout the United States and southern Canada. It bears the typical teardrop-shaped leaves of clovers, but unlike other clovers, it has yellow blooms. It is usually a summer annual, although in some warmer climates, it can live for several years. The leaves, like many clovers, grow in threes and are oval in shape. Small yellow flowers, resembling pom-poms, blossom on stems that develop from the stems of each cluster of leaves from May through September or April through July, depending on where you live.

Black medic is not an inherently strong or competitive weed. It will not spread aggressively and choke out desirable plants and turfgrass if proper landscape maintenance practices are observed. Black medic only takes over lawns that have compacted soil with poor nitrogen levels as it belongs to the legume family, it is a nitrogen-fixing plant; when black medic starts appearing in your lawn, it is an indication that your soil is compacted and does not have enough nutrients. Therefore, if you remove these weeds in the early stages before they produce seeds and fix your soil issues, you can get rid of black medic from your lawn.

For controlling small numbers of black medic in your lawn, pulling them out by hand or using a weeding tool before they set seed is recommended by Edenapp. As black medic is a summer annual, it spreads only through seeds and not through roots and nodes. Therefore, this method will be effective in removing black medic from your lawn. Edenapp recommends pulling out the weed plant when the soil is wet to make the process easier. Also, you should not let this weed sit in your yard after pulling it out but bag them immediately to dispose of them.

Cultural control methods like aerating your soil to make sure it is not hard and compact and has proper nutrient, air and water flow and regularly fertilizing your soil with the appropriate nutrient combination will ensure that black medic will not re-invade your lawn. Overseed your lawn to make sure it is dense enough to not allow any space for black medic growth.

Chemical control methods that include the use of pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides need to be employed to control a larger infestation of black medic. Pre-emergent herbicides that are effective on black medic are oxyfluorfen and oryzalin (Rout) and dithiopyr (Dimension). Post-emergent herbicides for effective control of black medic include combinations of 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPA, or MCPP; these can be three-way or two-way combinations. 

Herbicides that contain dicamba should not be sprayed near the root zone of shrubs and trees as this will cause the roots of this desirable vegetation to absorb the product and thus damage it. Pre-emergent herbicides need to be applied before the weed seeds start to germinate and the directions given on the product label should be read carefully to understand the correct rate of application and if the product is safe to use on your turfgrass and around your ornamentals. For more information on how to treat black medic, you can read Edenapp’s article on the same.

Black medic might be considered a nuisance to the lawn but it can also be beneficial for your soil. Since black medic belongs to the legume family, it has a symbiotic relationship with rhizobium bacteria that allow the plant to fix the atmospheric nitrogen. This nitrogen is then used both by the black medic plant and the other plants nearby. Therefore, this is beneficial for lawns with poor nitrogen levels. Black medic also attracts pollinators like bees to pollinate your lawn. This summer annual is edible and is a rich nutrient source and is often used as a herb in Asia and Europe where it is native.

What are the Harms of Garden Weeds?

Though not all weeds are noxious to the lawn and garden, some are very aggressive and can harm the health of the lawn, the people using the lawn and the pets. The following are the harms of garden weeds.

  1. Weeds compete for space: Weeds also occupy a lot of space that is meant for other plant and turfgrass, making it difficult for gardens and lawns to thrive. Invasive species, in particular, can completely devastate a micro-ecosystem, preventing all other sorts of plants from growing there.
  2. Weeds compete for nutrients: Plants and weeds compete for nutrients, water, and light. Weeds can deplete the resources in the soil causing the desirable plants to starve. Plants may become susceptible to illness and insect infestation as a result of a lack of nutrients, which includes phosphate, nitrogen, and potassium. Weeds grow at an incredible rate, consuming the majority of the nutrients in the soil. This can cause the plants to become overburdened, leading them to wither and perish. 
  3. Weeds can be parasitic: Certain weeds are parasites, which implies they feed on the nutrients of other plants. An example of this is mi , which clings to host plants to take sunlight, nutrients and water from the soil. Mistletoe and other parasitic weeds can make host plants weak, causing them to succumb to malnutrition, disease, or pest infestation.
  4. Weeds can affect the health of lawn users: Weeds not only harm plants, but they can create a variety of health problems. Ragweed, for example, is a common weed that can cause asthma and other respiratory problems, especially in children. Some weeds are poisonous, while others can irritate the skin.

For more information on the harms of weeds to the lawn and garden, you can read Edenapp’s article – Are Garden Weeds Bad?

How to Treat Garden Weeds?

There are various ways of treating garden weeds, depending on the type of weed it is. Some cultural methods of controlling garden weeds include using appropriate mulching techniques, mowing your lawn high, regular fertilization, and deep and infrequent watering. Homemade remedies for weed treatment involve the use of boiling water, baking soda or vinegar. For small numbers of weeds, hand-pulling the weed or digging them out using a weeding tool is effective in controlling the weeds that spread by seeds. When the weed infestation becomes too large and threatens the overall health of the landscape, chemical treatment methods are employed which include pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide applications as a last resort.

What Products can be Used to Treat Garden Weeds?

There are a lot of lawn care products we can use to treat weeds. The following list contains both organic and chemical treatment products.

  1. Vinegar: Vinegar will kill anything it comes into contact with. It’s important to note that it won’t work on deep-rooted perennials and may just ‘burn’ the apparent parts of the weed, but it’s excellent for eradicating any visible weeds that have poked out. Vinegar is particularly effective on young weeds.
  2. Baking soda: Baking soda is a good option to control weeds that grow in the cracks in concrete areas like patio slabs as here it can safely eradicate the weeds without harming any desirable plants.
  3. Boiling water: Boiling water will also immediately destroy any weeds it comes in contact with but remember that it can also damage other plants it touches. So, pour with care.
  4. Mulch: Mulch can be laid on top of landscape fabric or cardboard to kill existing weeds and also prevent any new ones from growing.
  5. Pre-emergent herbicides: Pre-emergent herbicides prevent new weed seeds from germinating and therefore, these are the most effective against annual weeds as they propagate through seeds. The most important point to remember regarding pre-emergent application is the right time to apply according to the germination time of the weed.
  6. Selective herbicides: Selective herbicides only affect the growth of the weed plant while not harming the surrounding desirable plants like crabgrass weed killers. But this type of herbicide is not available for all weeds.
  7. Non-selective herbicides: Non-selective herbicides are broad-spectrum herbicides that kill any vegetation they come in contact with and therefore they need to be used with a lot of care.

If you are having weed troubles in your lawn, consult Edenapp. Our experts will inspect your lawn and employ appropriate methods to get rid of any existing infestations and also perform yard maintenance tasks that will prevent re-infestation.

Enjoy a beautifully manicured lawn with our timely yard work services that care for your yard according to the season. Call us today!

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